Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
